Senior Contributor · Asia Pacific
Visited December 2024
Sézanne is already the kind of name that lands differently once you understand what it has earned. Number 15 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024. Number one in Asia. Three Michelin stars. But none of that quite prepares you for walking into the Chef’s Table at the Four Seasons Tokyo Marunouchi and sitting down to what becomes one of the most remarkable evenings of your life.
The Chef’s Table is its own world within the restaurant. A private entrance. A dedicated dining room that seats six comfortably on either side. And a floor-to-ceiling window that opens directly into the kitchen … not a peephole … not a camera feed … but an actual portal into the creative process. The rest of the main dining room does not get this view. That single element changed the texture of the entire experience.
We visited on December 26th under chef Daniel Calvert, and the seasonal menu was built almost entirely around rare Japanese snow crab … a winter delicacy with only four months of availability, treated here as a prestige ingredient across nearly every course. The crab appeared in savory preparations, integrated into sauces, and found its way into dessert in ways that felt genuinely surprising rather than gimmicky. These chefs are not executing a menu. They are crafting a seasonal argument. And on this particular evening, they won it completely.
Hokkaido scallops with chive oil. Local striped shrimp in jellied herb broth. Foie gras. A young red snapper. Baffin sea urchin. A jellyfish niçoise that replaced tuna with jellyfish and kept the traditional olives and anchovy intact … playful without ever being precious. Crispy-skin kinke from Abashiri with shishito and Japanese clams. Shanghai hairy crab with white Alba truffle. Heritage Japanese chicken poached in vin jaune.
The shirako with black truffle arrived custard-like and deeply rich in a way that rewired expectations. The Megumi gamo in sauce merlot … heritage Japanese duck served with sweet carrots … was the dish of the evening. Not one component competed with another. The fugu with roasted crab sauce closed the savory progression in a way that felt complete and considered rather than simply final.
Sense of Place
9.5
Design & comfort
9.6
Food & beverage
9.6
Service
9.8
Location
9.7
Value
9.5
